Stockbridge resident Chloe Frost-Smith shares her neighbourhood favourites ahead of the Edinburgh Fringe
Small but oh-so-quaint, what was once an outlying village has become a rather gentrified magnet for creatives, foodies, and stylish young families. You’ll see more than a glimmer of Stockbridge’s old-world charm in its cobbled streets, elegant Georgian crescents, and riverside paths, which create a welcoming refuge from the Fringe madness which descends on the Scottish capital every August. If you’re visiting for the Festival, or indeed at any time of year, it’s worth sparing a day on your Edinburgh itinerary to soak up everything Stockbridge has to offer.
Shop
Rare Birds Book Shop, Raeburn Place…This women-run bookstore should be top of every literary lover’s list. The colourful shelves are filled with page-turners by female authors across every genre, and (like the rest of Stockbridge) it’s incredibly dog-friendly if you’d like to take your pooch along to peruse.
Treen, St Stephen Place…Looking to make the transition from fast to slow fashion? This eco-consciously curated, vegan clothing brand makes it look easy (and effortlessly chic in the process). Their flagship store is located on one of my favourite streets in the city, so you can enjoy the stroll on your way to make more sustainable fashion choices.
Jorum Studio, St Stephen Street…Founded by Scottish perfumer Euan McCall, stepping into this independent, gender-neutral fragrance store is a sensory experience to be savoured. I love the ceramic nose sculptures on the wall, and I’ve already asked if their rug and tapestry are for sale (sadly, they’re not). Their Gorseland scent is my current favourite, inspired by Edinburgh’s Salisbury Crags.
The Method, St Stephen Street…If I’m ever having a stressful day, I like to pop into this whitewashed, divinely-scented sanctuary – natural pillow mists, seagrass body balms, mini jade massage stones, and beautifully-boxed scented candles are just some of the wellness highlights on offer.
Kestin, Bakers Place…I like to borrow from the boys, and this Scottish menswear brand (founded by Edinburgh local, Kestin Hare) makes it all the more tempting. The olive-green fronted Stockbridge store is the brand’s flagship, which stocks made-to-last utility looks (supplied to the likes of Mr Porter).
Featured products Carduus by Jorum Studio; Frida bags by Skall Studio, stocked in Treen; Kestin street style; Legra Soap, stocked in The Method; Linen Check Cushions in Ivy by Style Your Spaces; Summer sale picks from Dick’s.
Style Your Spaces, Howe Street…Aesthetically pleasing doesn’t even begin to do this little interiors shop justice. The beautifully curated collections are all handpicked by creative director Katie Brigstock from small, independent artisans – including block-printed quilts, hand-blown glassware, and original artwork.
Meander Apparel, North West Circus Place…Sustainably-made outdoorsy clothing, inspired by Scandinavian minimalist design. Need I say more?
Edinburgh Mercantile, North West Circus Place…This is a blink-and-you-miss-it boutique, so keep an eye out for its moody dark shopfront and gold lettering. Inside, you’ll find a treasure trove of carefully chosen stoneware, stationery, and utility products from local makers.
Dick’s Edinburgh, North West Circus Place…Supporting small, independent manufacturers, both old and new, it’s almost impossible to leave this thoughtfully-stocked selection of menswear, womenswear, accessories and homeware empty handed.
Dahlia, Deanhaugh Street…Its sunshine yellow façade adorned with dried flower arrangements and hand-embroidered baskets will sadly only be brightening up the high street for a couple more months, before moving online. Shop their generously discounted sales while you can!
Eat
Lannan Bakery, Hamilton Place…The name (and pastry flakes) on everyone’s lips right now opened last weekend to queues of Darcie Maher’s croissant-loving followers. This stylish viennoiserie is certainly worth making a pastry pilgrimage for – but you’ll need to get here bright and early (as they sell like, well, hot cakes).
The Pastry Section, Raeburn Place…This window display of made-from-scratch cakes and pastries will stop you in your tracks. I’ve been through more loyalty cards here than I care to count – another bakehouse to browse early doors.
Cowan & Sons, Raeburn Place…A beloved brunch spot and print shop which collaborates with homegrown and international artists on limited edition artworks, this family-run café is always packed (and for good reason). You can always order take-away treats through the stained-glass window if you’re strolling by.
Twelve Triangles, Comely Bank Road…I’m a bit of a sourdough snob but I’ve been hooked on the slow fermentation bread from this bakery since moving to Stockbridge.
The Pantry, North West Circus Place…As one of the best places for brunch in the city, you’ll do well to bag yourself a table (especially the outdoor seating area on a sunny day). Come ravenous because the portions are generous – my go-to is their ‘Eggs Benny’ on toasted sourdough.
Joelato, North West Circus Place…It’s become my fair-weather ritual to wander over to this family-run gelateria, and order a couple of scoops of their special Ferdi flavour (salted honeycomb). Everything is hand-made using natural Perthshire ingredients, with a seasonally-changing menu.
Skua, St Stephen Street…You’ll only find this trendy underground restaurant and bar if you know where to look. Follow the pink neon sign down a set of stairs, into a candle-lit dining room for small, Asian-inspired plates and sorcerer-sounding cocktails.
Satine Saint Stephen, St Stephen Street… Inspired by the pavement cafés of Montmartre, this chic Parisian-style restaurant is housed within an old butcher’s shop. At dinner, hand-dived Orkney scallops are washed down with sommelier-selected wines – and the Sunday brunch is a spread of Scottish smoked salmon, caviar, and French cheeses.
The Scran & Scallie, Comely Bank Road…This rustic Scottish-meets-Scandi gastropub (from husband and wife team Tom and Michaela Kitchin) has made quite the name for itself, so it’s always worth booking well ahead. Sit on sheepskin throws and savour home-cooked classics – the Highland wagyu beef burger is a must-try.
I.J. Mellis, Bakers Place…If anyone asks me what heaven looks like, I’ll give them a description of this artisan cheesemongers. Some of my fondest memories of visiting Edinburgh around Christmas include raiding their farmhouse cheeses, chutneys, oatcakes, and membrillo to take back on the train (which I fully intended to give as gifts but mostly consumed within the four-hour journey).
@fortitudecoffee by @brunetteroyalty
Drink
Fortitude, Hamilton Place…I’m not a coffee drinker, but have been assured by countless caffeine-loving friends that this is one of the best spots for your morning (artisan roasted) brew – with Water of Leith views.
Smith & Gertrude, Hamilton Place…Fine wines, cheese, and charcuterie (my love language). Their outdoor tables catch the best late afternoon, early evening sun.
St Vincent Bar, St Vincent Street…Affectionately known as ‘The Vinnie’ to locals, this is a snug boozer for traditional pints at the end of Circus Lane (one of the prettiest streets, more on this below). Bring your pup on every last Sunday of the month, and it might just end up on their dog wall of fame.
Do
Inverleith Park…A vast, verdant space for dog-walkers, sports matches, and picnics. Sadly it’s too busy for my anxious sighthound, but his Dalmatian friend Tilly has tried and tested the liver cakes from the MILK coffee shack if you’re running low on treats (human-friendly baked goods are available too).
Royal Botanic Garden… Discover thousands of plant varieties in one of Edinburgh’s most tranquil settings. While access to the gardens is free, there is a small cost if you’d like to step inside one of the striking Victorian glasshouses filled with ancient palm trees and exotic flowers.
Circus Lane… In the shadow of the St Stephen Church clock tower lies Circus Lane, a magical residential street of terraced mews houses with colourful front doors and hanging baskets of flowers – deservedly one of the city’s most photographed spots.
Photography by Chloe Frost-Smith
Stockbridge Market…This farmers market is the highlight of my weekend, open every Sunday (10am to 4pm). Humphrey proudly wears his Holyrood tartan collar from Bark & Hare, and fresh seasonal flowers from Green Pea Studio always fill my bedside vase – though you can find all manner of street food and artisan wares from small, independent sellers.
Water of Leith – Dean Village…Follow this scenic riverside walkway and you’ll come to Dean Village, a photogenic pastel-coloured patchwork of 19th century buildings and bridges (don’t forget your camera).
Stockbridge Ceramics, Henderson Row…If you’re in town for the week, sign up to pottery classes (this gallery-studio space offers short two-session taster courses) – choosing between hand-building or wheel-throwing for a creative way to pass your time.