Words & photographs by Emma Lavelle
Bath is enchanting all year round, but the autumn months are the best to explore the city thanks to its abundance of russet-hued trees, cosy eateries and the thermal mineral waters of its iconic spa. Nature lovers will delight in how green (or rust, at this time of year) the city is – stroll around the botanical gardens, visit the endearing Giant Plane Tree or head out to the surrounding countryside, where you’ll find charming and luxurious hotel, restaurant and spa, Homewood. This is the perfect base for retreating to after strolling around the city, snuggling up in front of a roaring fire, relaxing in the spa or soaking in one of their impressive bathtubs.
Friday 3pm
After arriving at Bath Spa train station, hop into a taxi for a short 15 minute drive through picturesque countryside towards Homewood, a Georgian retreat surrounded by rolling hills and tranquil villages. Here, you’ll receive a warm and friendly welcome as you are shown to your room (we recommend their luxe hot tub suites for the added indulgence of a private hot tub and double bath tubs in the spacious bathroom). Take a stroll around the estate’s vast gardens and cosy interiors to admire their eclectic array of artwork.
Friday 4pm
Once you’re settled in, wrap up in your complimentary robe and slippers to head over to the hotel’s spa for a relaxing evening. Here, you can swim in the heated outdoor pool all year round, or if you prefer something a little cosier, submerge yourself in the indoor hydrotherapy pool where you can lie back and enjoy the gentle massaging jets. There’s also a sauna, steam room and hot tub. Ensure that you book a treatment in advance for the ultimate relaxation – we recommend their signature vitality top-to-toe experience or the GAIA Indian head massage.
Friday 8pm
Pre-dinner, settle down in Valentine’s Bar to sip a cocktail by the fire, snuggled up on one of the comfortable sofas that are scattered around this charming red-walled room. It’s then time for dinner in Olio Restaurant, where the focus is on Mediterranean flavours with ingredients gathered from the surrounding area and the hotel’s own ‘no-dig’ kitchen garden. The beautifully presented cuisine is infused with rich flavours, with plenty of choice for all dietary requirements.
Saturday 8am
Wake early on Saturday morning to head outdoors for an early morning walk. Homewood supplies guests with a walking book of the local area, with various options depending on how long you would like to walk for. A loop to Iford Manor (where you can pick up a takeaway coffee from the cafe) and back to the hotel through Freshford village is a gentle one-and-a-half-hour stroll that allows you to admire the local landscapes.
Saturday 10am
Order a taxi to head back into Bath for a day of exploring the city. We recommend a slow start in Landrace Bakery’s Morning Room, where you can enjoy coffee and fresh bakes until 11.30am. Head up the winding staircase inside the bakery to find a light and cheerful space with an open kitchen, flaunting Bath’s most delicious pastries.
Saturday 12pm
Bath is a small city, and is easy to explore by foot. While away a few hours wandering around the city’s impressive selection of independent shops, such as Nam (a curated collection of homeware), Berdoulat (beautiful designs housed in an interesting period building) and 8 Holland Street (a gallery and design studio with a unique edit of artworks and objects). Bath is also known for its bookshops – Persephone Books, Mr B’s Emporium Bookshop and Topping & Company Booksellers should all be on any literary lover’s list.
Saturday 6pm
Pre-dinner, head to award-winning cocktail bar, The Dark Horse to enjoy one or two of their seasonal cocktails. This bijou drinking den focuses on fresh and local ingredients, putting their own spin on classic drinks and championing spirits sourced from nearby distilleries.
Saturday 7pm
You’re spoilt for choice of where to go for dinner in Bath, but we recommend making a reservation at either Oak Restaurant or Corkage Restaurant & Wine Bar. Both serve a selection of seasonal small plates with an emphasis on fresh ingredients. Oak offers cosy seating, delicious cocktails and an interesting vegetarian menu, focusing on vegetables that taste great but also come from land that has been farmed with care. Corkage has a comprehensive hand-selected wine list, with a menu divided into vegetables, fish and meat that is designed to be shared with your dining companions.
Sunday 10am
No visit to Bath is complete without a visit to the city’s iconic Thermae Spa. Book a two hour session for Sunday morning, to unwind in the naturally warm, mineral-rich waters of the open-air rooftop pool and Minerva bath. This is the only place in the UK where you can bathe in 34-degree mineral waters, heated by high temperature rocks two kilometres below the earth’s surface before rising up through one of the three springs in the centre of the city. Access to the spa also includes the Wellness Suite, with two steam rooms, an infrared sauna, ice chamber, celestial relaxation room and experience showers.
Sunday 1pm
A Sunday roast is an essential ingredient for a cosy weekend away, and there’s no better roast in Bath than The Hare & Hounds, located atop Lansdown Hill with spectacular countryside views from its panoramic windows. This cosy inn is just a mile outside the city, but feels like you’ve been transported to a much more rural location with its roaring fires and picturesque surroundings. The Sunday roast menu usually includes a choice of three meats and two vegetarian dishes, and they also have an excellent wine list.
Sunday 4pm
Spend your final night at Homewood, snuggling up by the fire and playing board games in the communal lounge, sipping cocktails in the bar or soaking up the warmth of the sauna and hydrotherapy pool. If you have one of their generously sized bathtubs in your room, now is the perfect time to fill it up for a long soak for the perfect ending to your weekend in Bath.
Emma Lavelle is a travel, nature and portrait photographer, slow travel and lifestyle writer, and content creator living in the English countryside. Follow Emma on Instagram @fieldandnest for more slow living inspiration.