Abi Tottenham-Smith takes a walk (well, drive) on the wild side along South Africa’s Western Cape with photographer Kira Turnbull
Topping my travel wish-list for a while – a cancelled trip to South Africa during the pandemic has been hanging over me since March 2020. So when I got the opportunity to visit recently for the first of our SLH brand photoshoots of this year, I was overjoyed to be able to experience this African wonder for the first time. And it really was worth the wait…
STOP 1: CAPE TOWN
After touching down in Cape Town, we picked up our hire car and made a beeline for the first hotel on our itinerary, The Cellars-Hohenort, in the idyllic neighbourhood of Constantia. On the short 20-minute drive from the airport, we were already given a taste of the breath-taking landscapes to come. Arriving during golden hour, with the last light of a long summer’s day streaming through the buildings and trees along the roadside, our trip was off to a magical start.
We spent the day exploring Cape Town itself while shooting some destination content, beginning at colourful Bo Kaap then making our way through Camps Bay and along to Hout Bay. Just as the sun was setting, we rocked up (and hiked up!) to Signal Hill, a sweet spot in-between both Table Mountain and Lions Head, ensuring you get ruggedly good-looking views of both (especially at sunrise or sunset).
”We’ll let you in on a little secret - many people believe Table Mountain gives the best views…however, if you are on Table Mountain, you don’t see Table Mountain!
WHERE TO STAY
Set just behind Table Mountain, The Cellars-Hohenort is a true oasis, offering a quiet (yet close enough) retreat from buzzy Cape Town. Amongst nine-acres of blooming gardens and vineyards, the historic wine estate is the ideal base to come home to after a day of exploring the city. Breakfasts here were amongst the trip highlights – mainly for the early morning view of Table Mountain as you sip your morning coffee, starting the day in complete tranquillity just letting the sights and sounds of nature wash over you.
My private balcony also overlooked the swimming pool and vineyard, and became a special place to gather my thoughts while contemplating the day ahead. Thanks to Head Chef Daniel and his team, we ate incredibly well throughout our stay – from traditional Cape Malay bobotie (a creamy combination of curried meat and fruit) to an intricately decorated lobster risotto.
The Cellars-Hohenort | Book Now
STOP 2: HERMANUS
Just one-and-a-half hour’s drive from Cape Town, the coastal journey to the pretty seaside town of Hermanus is something to be savoured, and prepares you for the Garden Route itself. To break up the drive, we stopped off at Peregrine Farm Stall, a cute little spot to pick up some local produce and to get our caffeine fix. After stocking up on biltong and freshly-pressed apple juice, we got back on the road.
Our two must-do activities while visiting the historic fishing town of Hermanus? Firstly, sign yourself up to a Big Marine Five adventure with Marine Dynamics, an ecotourism organisation who arrange a number of wildlife-friendly aquatic adventures from shark diving to penguin sanctuary visits. Despite obviously wanting to try the shark diving, we thought the Big Marine Five experience was where we would get the best content. We were lucky enough to see four out of the five (penguins, dolphins, seals, and sharks) but sadly missed out on a whale spotting…all the more reason to return!
After a morning on the water, the afternoon was spent at one of the local vineyards set in the rolling farmland of Walker Bay. Famed for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Creation Wines is owned by Carolyn and Jean-Claude Martin, an inspiring couple who live and breathe wine, expertly creating the best in the region. Jean-Claude spends most of his time in the cellars ensuring the wines turn out perfectly, while Carolyn (picture below) brings the flavours to life in their restaurant. We indulged in the seven-course wine pairing menu hosted by Carolyn, who guided us through each meticulously constructed dish and its perfect wine pairing.
WHERE TO STAY
Hermanus is mostly known for being the world’s top whale-watching destination, where you can even view the Southern Right Whale from your bedroom window at The Marine as they frolic in the bay before your eyes (between June and December). Sadly we were visiting at the wrong time of the year to spot them — however, as we got our drone up for an aerial view of the hotel, we managed to find a pod of dolphins gliding through the waters, which made up for the whales’ absence.
The Marine really does live up to its nautical name. Perched on the rugged clifftop with the famous coastal path crossing right in front of the hotel, the views are as spectacular as you’d expect. With direct access to the coastal path, The Marine boasts the best location in town. Not to mention the tidal pool in front of the hotel where you can enjoy a refreshing dip first thing in the morning.
The Marine | Book Now
STOP 3: PLETTENBERG BAY
We reached our final destination after a five-hour drive along the iconic Garden Route, which will exceed all your road trip expectations. With plenty of scenic stop-offs along the way, we made sure we took in all the viewpoints. Key spots to mark on your map are Mossel Bay, Wilderness, George and finally Kysnar, before pulling into Plettenberg.
Tucked neatly into the Garden Route, Plettenberg Bay is the kind of place where you can walk through ancient forests in the morning and be on the beach in the afternoon. If you’re arriving at sunset, head to Lookout Beach as the waters turn a dusky pink and reflect the Tsitsikamma Mountains — or wake up early and grab your surfboard to catch some waves at Robberg.
WHERE TO STAY
Serenely situated above one of South Africa’s finest bays, the views from The Plettenberg really did take my breath away. I am lucky enough to experience some incredible destinations and hotels through my role at SLH, but some views really stand out and this was one of them. We arrived just before sunset, so that golden light was in full force. It is said that the light in South Africa is unlike anywhere else in the world, which is one of the reasons so many photographers and film crews are drawn here – and I can certainly see why.
The hotel has not one, but two infinity pools – each overlooking the tranquil bay below, but my favourite spot in the whole hotel had to be the beautifully decorated living room where you can enjoy an iced coffee and look out over the pool and sea. The aforementioned iced coffee was the best I have ever experienced, created by Head Mixologist, Honest (pictured below), who has been serving customers at the Sandbar for over a decade and is the true meaning of ‘service with a smile’.
During our visit we were treated to a blissful picnic on the beach by Head Chef Kyle, who lovingly creates a bounty of dishes to be enjoyed surf-side. The panoramic terrace at nearby Bitou Vineyards, which specialises in Sauvignon Blanc, is a beautiful spot to drink in the vine-clad views. And of course we couldn’t leave without experiencing a traditional braai – South Africa’s fiery (and fun!) answer to the barbecue, which The Plettenberg have expertly mastered.
The Plettenberg | Book Now
HOMEWARD BOUND
As we sadly bid farewell to The Plettenberg, we had the long journey home ahead of us. What makes this the perfect itinerary is that you can fly directly from Plettenberg. Just a short drive from the hotel, Plettenberg Bay Airport is the one of the smallest you will ever experience. With literally enough space for one check-in desk and a toilet, it is quite the experience to fly from here. Our teeny plane took us to Johannesburg, where we stocked up on more biltong before our flight back to London.
The friendly faces and dream-like landscapes of South Africa are not something you’ll forget in a hurry – but when it comes to booking your next trip here, now that’s a different story.